An Apology
Mexico is a funny place. Not like
ha-ha kind of funny, but peculiar. And not peculiar in a bad way
either. It's funny because it's really not what I expected when I
dreamed of sailing here for the past 20 years.
When I first started scheming and
planning for this big adventure, I was pretty excited to get to Mexico.
Mostly because of an article in a sailing magazine I had read that
described a couple of islands and anchorages in the Sea of Cortez
that sounded amazing. And the pictures that went with the article?
Well, I had visions of me and my boat sitting in the middle of those
pictures for nearly 20 years. When work and life and stress all
seemed to be doing their best to drag me down, the vision of me in
the middle of those pictures with my boat was the motivation that
picked me up and kept me going. Those anchorages were the carrot at
the end of the stick.
But beyond those two anchorages, I
really hadn't thought much about Mexico. I knew I wanted to get here
because it meant that I actually left Seattle and started my big
sailing the world adventure, but really, I didn't think there would
be much more here for me beyond those 2 places. I was pretty sure
that we would spend the typical 6 month cruising season here and then
rush off to the next place before hurricane season set in - most
likely some tropical island in the middle of the South Pacific (a
deserted tropical island was the other carrot that kept me going). I
sort of thought Mexico would be like a truck stop on the side of the
highway, where we would stop to take a quick break before heading off
across the Pacific to get to the good stuff.
Most days, I have no idea what time or
date it is. Today is no different. But, while I was watching the
sun go down in another spectacular anchorage, with Las Montanas
Giganticas behind us, I started wondering how long we've been in
Mexico (translation: the Gigantic Mountains...every landmark in the
Sea of Cortez is named literally...white rock, black rock, point with
cactus, bay with green water, etc... The gigantic mountains is a
very fitting name). With the help of my computer calendar and some
quick math, I came up with the answer. As of today, it's been 7
months and 23 days. For a guy who didn't think he would be here for
more than 6 months tops, because I didn't think there would be much
more to see than those two anchorages, I feel like I should apologize
to Mexico.
Mexico, I'm sorry. You are pretty
awesome.
After nearly 8 months in Mexico, we've
barely scratched the surface of what's here. We know we'll be here
for at least another 6 months riding out hurricane season, so we'll
have a good amount of time to see a bunch more stuff, but, even after
all of that, I don't know that we'll fully appreciate everything that
Mexico has to offer. You could spend years here and still not
experience it all. Again, Mexico, you are pretty awesome.
We've known a bunch of cruisers with
plans of seeing the world who've spent years in Mexico and never
left, and before now, I have never really understood why. With such
a big world out there, why would someone want to be in one country
for years? After all, there are hundreds of other countries to see.
There of course is the sheer size of
Mexico. It's a big country. Even if we just wanted to sail on past
its coastline, with never even setting foot on land, it would take us
weeks to skirt on by its shores. Guatemala, the next country in line
for us to visit and Mexico's southern neighbor, would take us about
24 hours. So, if I wanted to come up with a formula which stated the
proper amount of time for us to visit a country based on landmass
alone, Mexico warrants a long visit. But, as you can probably guess,
there are many more variables than purely landmass which go into the
equation of how much time is appropriate to spend in one country.
Here in Mexico, I could probably add
multiple variables to the equation based on where we are at. Each
region's food has different flavors and ingredients. Then there is
the topography, the climate, and the history which all varies based
on which part of the country you are in. There is the southern
tropics, the jungles, the mountains, and there are huge cities and
ancient ruins scattered inland. Then there is the Baja side of the
Sea of Cortez with its rugged and remote coastline and dusty little
fishing villages and towns. I guess all of that ties into the sheer
size of Mexico, giving it lots of variables which all need to be
factored in to the overall equation of what is the proper amount of
time for us to spend in one country.
I still don't think a lot of people
fully understand what it is we are doing because I still get emails
and phone calls with questions like, “When are you coming home?”,
“Why are you still in Mexico?”, “How long are you going to be
doing this?”, “How long are you planning on living on the boat?”
The short answers to those questions
are: We are home. Mexico is great. For as long as it takes. I've
lived on a sailboat for over 20 years now, so, I kind of think it
will be for a while longer – this is normal life for us. I think
the big point that still needs to be made is that this is a lifestyle. We aren't on a vacation. This isn't something with a
specific start or a definite end. We are currently living in Mexico
on our sailboat, doing our best to experience this country, for as
long as it takes, and then we'll move on to the next country.
For us, since we have no real time-line
or place we need to be, the equation is this: Are we enjoying the
place? If the answer is yes, then there is no point to leave. If
the answer is no, well, then it's time to move our little floating
home somewhere else. And since we have no real time-line or place we
need to be, we are doing our best to see everything that is humanly
possible along the way.
For the next few months, we'll be in
Mexico's Sea of Cortez, hopping from anchorage to anchorage and doing
our best to see what this place has to offer. So far, each anchorage
we've been to is entirely different from the last. Sure, it's the
desert and it's hot. That's a constant. But when we step off of the
boat to explore the shoreline, hike up into the mountains, or roam
through dusty Baja towns and fishing villages, each place is
remarkably different. And better yet, each place we get to is
entirely new to us. Because quite possibly our favorite thing on
earth is getting to someplace that is new to us.
I know a lot of people out there think
the desert is boring. They think it's lifeless and drab. For us,
it's remarkable. It's really like we are sailing through some of our
National Parks back home in the States. The last anchorage we were
in was surrounded by red rock formations that reminded us of what we
have seen in Moab, Utah, today it looks like we are sailing in the
bottom of the Grand Canyon, and tomorrow, well, who knows what that
will bring. And since this desert we are in is surrounded by the
Sea of Cortez, the brilliant blue ocean not only makes the heat
tolerable because we can jump in the water to cool off, it also
provides a striking contrast to the colors of the rock formations and
desert landscape. It's stunning to say the least.
And the Sea, well, it surprises us at every
turn. We have had daily wildlife encounters that one could only
dream of. We've swam with schools of rays, had close encounters with
whale sharks, paddle boarded with pods of dolphins, and had elusive
and rare species of whales pop up next to our boat as we are sailing
along to our next destination. Snorkeling with brightly colored fish
is a daily occurrence, we are anchoring our little floating home in
crystal clear water, and Brenda has taken to lounging in her floaty
while working on her tan and becoming a bronze goddess (it's hard
work).
Since we are enjoying Mexico so much,
does this mean we are never leaving? Of course not. It's just one
stop of many for us. But, it has surprised us how much we've loved
it here. So again, Mexico, I'm sorry. You are pretty awesome.
Exploring the anchorage at Bahia de Los Gatos (translation: Bay of the cats. Sadly, we didn't see any cats there). |
The View of Agua Verde from the top. In this little village, we restocked their tiny school with supplies from our "giving back" fundraiser. |
A happy customer, with a new backpack full of art and school supplies. |
Brenda Claus giving out a bunch of soccer balls |
Comments
Post a Comment