Yellowstone
We are now here at the holy grail of
our great National Parks. Yellowstone. Most of you reading this
have probably been here...maybe even more than once. Neither Brenda
nor I have been here and were really excited to get here. We camped
out at the Lewis and Clark Caverns the night before and barely slept
a wink because we were so excited (Brenda actually didn't sleep
because she was still freaked out because of the caverns we just went
through and I didn't sleep very well because of the howling wolves
that seemed awfully close to our camp...and because we were excited).
It's one of the places that have been on both of our bucket lists
for too long and now we are able to cross it off the list.
After day one at the park, all I can
say is that this place is off the hook! We made the necessary stop
at Old Faithful and watched the geyser spit right on cue up into the
sky. We hiked around the area and saw the worlds largest predictable
geyser, the Great Geyser, spray its massive spout right as a thunder
storm rolled in. When the hail started to fall and the lightening
started to crackle, we decided that it was time to bolt. We ended up
running for dear life for about a mile down the trail back to the
safety of the lodge with lightening striking all around us. Some of
the lightening was way too close for comfort...so close that we could
feel the electricity in the air and there was no discernible time
between the flash of light and the roar of the thunder. It was scary
and exhilarating all at the same time. We got to the lodge soaking
wet and decided to wait out the rest of the storm indoors.
I know that I say that I saw the most
amazing thing all the time...this time it was for real. We saw a
pack of wolves take down a bison...yep, you read that right, a pack
of wolves taking down a bison. We actually didn't stay for the final
“kill” moment because it was getting dark and we didn't really
want to be out with the wolves and bears when we couldn't see them
coming (and Brenda didn't want to see the kill), but we watched the
showdown for a handful of hours. I can't really describe how cool it
was to see a bison stare down a wolf...nose to nose only a couple
feet apart from each other. It's an image that will stick with me
for ever. It's something that most people will only see in a
National Geographic magazine and we got to see it in real life.
Truly incredible.
We also saw a grizzly bear that was
directly across the Yellowstone River from us, just about 50 yards
away, that when it noticed us gawkers watching him, ran full tilt up
a hill and into the woods. This guy was huge and amazingly fast.
Anyone that thinks they can outrun a bear is dead wrong. I still
can't believe how fast he moved, especially because of how big he
was. It was really cool to see him in his element because we had the
river as a buffer between him and us. After we saw him and how fast
he moved, we were a little bit paranoid about hiking...we didn't go
anywhere without our bear spray armed and ready.
The highlight for Brenda (other than
all the hiking) was a buffalo stampede that we just so happened to be
right in the middle of. We were driving back to camp on our 3rd
night when a huge herd of buffalo, between 75-100 of the hairy
beasts, started running right next to us on the highway. A couple of
them darted onto the road which made us slam on the brakes and stop.
The rest of them followed and were running around our truck and onto
the road. It was crazy. These things are huge, fast, aggressive,
and smelly and they don't care if you are trying to get somewhere.
We were loving being in the middle of it but pretty soon there was a
huge line of cars behind us that didn't enjoy the wait as much as we
did. We were stuck in the buffalo traffic jam for about 30 minutes
as we followed them lumbering up the highway.
We stopped for dinner after the traffic
jam at the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel (the food was terrible...don't
eat there). When we were in line there were a few ladies in front of
us that asked if we were in the middle of the traffic jam. We told
them “Yes! We were the first car in the line up! Wasn't it
great!?!?!” Their reply was “It was terrible...why didn't the
rangers come down and do something about the bison in the road and
all of the traffic?” All that I could think of to say was “we
asked the bison nicely to move out of the way but they didn't seem to
understand what I was asking.” She didn't think I was funny.
Yellowstone had more in store for us on
the rest of our visit. We saw tons more geysers, loads more bison,
antelope, wolves, elk, grizzly bears, dear, and some of the most
majestic scenery this fine world has to offer. We hiked through
prairies, down into the grand canyon of Yellowstone, and up to the
high peaks. We hiked a little over 50 miles in the 4 days we stayed
in the park (and yes, my dogs were barking). We talked with the Park
Rangers and learned a ton about the area and the critters and saw amazing things. It is truly a magical place. Its one of those
places that everyone should see at least once. The Yellowstone
experience was as close to a religious experience as I have ever had.
I was overwhelmed a couple of times by the beauty and magnitude of
the place.
On a few of our hikes, there were signs
at the trail head that read something like “DANGER – this hike is
extremely difficult and steep. You should not attempt this hike if
you have breathing difficulties, heart problems, are pregnant, have
eaten more than one pound of bacon in the last year, blah, blah,
blah....” After a couple of these hikes, Brenda thought they
should just change the signs to read “this hike is going to make
you sweat”. They did make us sweat and they made me pant for air.
Being a Seattle boat boy for so long has made me used to the air at
sea level. Up around 8,000 feet the air is a bit thinner and you can
feel the difference. Up at 10,000 feet, I had a hard time catching
my breath even on the “mild” hikes. Just walking on flat ground
was more work than I was used to.
Yellowstone was everything and more
than we thought or hoped it would be. We were thrilled to be there
and really felt proud that some of our forefathers had enough
foresight to preserve some of our great nation for future generations
to see it in all it's majestic and wild beauty. Amazing.
We are now heading south to Mesa Verde
in southern Colorado to see the ancient cliff dwellings. We did take
a slight detour because we read about some great hot springs in
southern Idaho that are calling our names. After all of the hiking
that we just did, a nice soak in a great hot spring sounds like just
the ticket. We'll report more as there is more to report.
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